|
It was a bright, sunny
morning, the dewy grass on the street sides glittered in the sunlight, and everything
looked fresh and pleasant as we made our way to the steamer for a trip up the
Bay of Quinte, to the Stone Mills, and Marysburgh. Soon the boat loosened
from the wharf, the paddle wheels revolved, on we went; passing the foot of
streets after streets with their vista of trees, then the mansions along the
park, the Martello tower on the point; the hospital; the Herchmer
Homestead; the breweries and cottages; Alwington;
the Penitentiary, Portsmouth and Rockwood Asylum. And now, before we leave
the after deck for breakfast, we take a parting look at Kingston harbor and
its surroundings; the city with its churches and overtopping public
buildings, Simcoe, Garden and Wolfe Islands; the shipping; the forts in the
background; and behind, and beyond all, the wide flowing mighty of the St.
Lawrence. And now, as we turn to go in, before us lies the beautiful Bay of
Quinte, whose banks are esteemed the garden of Central Canada; and, far away
to our left beyond the gap, sketches of Lake Ontario with its wind tossed
billows, but we are on the Bay and therefore we dread not seasickness of ocean
or inland sea. We have breakfasted and again we are on deck; the day is
beautiful, the sun bright, the breeze balmy, the water calmly rippling, why
should we not enjoy the beautiful scenery which is out-spread before us by an
all-bounteous god? We do enjoy it, we take our fill
of gazing, and lift out hearts to heaven in thankful adoration. Collins’ Bay and Amherst
Island on the other side, the Brothers in the midst before us, invite our
ken. As we pass the Brothers, we see the ruins of the old hermit’s hut, the
few fields once tilled by him. Soon we are under the lee of
the woody bank of Amherst Island, once named from the exploring chevalier Tenti; whose name is not yet forgotten by the oldest
inhabitants. In like manner, the Bay itself witnesses by its name, to the
Nation which first explored its five lonely arms to tell of their beauties
and invite settlement on their banks. The small harbor of Stella, which we
now enter, has a convenient landing place, and its sheltering point is a very
good place for picnic parties. The boat swings from the wharf
and we cross the Bay diagonally for Bath. A sharp look out shows us the small
tin-clad spire of Amherst Island Church. As we run into, and out of Bath, we
see signs of decay instead of progress. It is sad, but the march of
civilization has done it. The railroad has enabled other place to tap its
back country; and the commerce of Bath is now mostly confined to a narrow
strip along the Bay, a few miles either way. Once Bath was a thriving place
and schooners and even steamboats were built there. Its school, which is partly
endowed, was, until not many years ago, a public grammar or high school and
had a reputation of its own. Here also was built one of the first churches in
Upper Canada, by that zealous pioneer Missionary, the Reverend John Langhorn;
whose name is still remembered with veneration by many of the oldest
inhabitants who received religious instruction from him in their youth. As
early as A.D., 1788, this earnest and devoted Missionary officiated, in the
townships of Fredericksburgh, Earnesttown,
Adolphustown and Sophiasburgh, which were settled in great part by the “United
Empire Loyalists,” a name flagrant in Canadian History. Bath is prettily
situated, and were it prosperous, might be made to
look well from the water. Leaving Bath we run over
again to Amherst Island at the upper wharf, then
pass the upper gap where we take our last view of Lake Ontario on this route.
And now, we run along the Marysburgh shore for German’s wharf. Marysburgh
below the rock, (as indeed the whole township), is a fine settled country,
the farms are all under good cultivation and the farmers seem all to be
comfortable and well to do, many of them having fine houses and other signs
of prosperity. A few miles before we come to German’s we sight Prinyer’s Grove, which is often used as a place of shelter
for vessels which run round her from Lake Ontario when the winds are very
boisterous along that shore. Prinyer’s Point is a
place of interest to the geologist and some of that gentleman’s family have added fine specimens, from the Trenton
Limestone, to more than one public collection. Science here found both
hospitality and aid in her search. Leaving German’s, we again
cross the Bay for Fredericksburgh, a well settled township with some splendid
farms and every sign of rural comfort and rural luxury. Again we cross the
Bay in a diagonal direction for Bongard’s Wharf at
the foot of a sloping road from the Marysburgh tableland. The traveler who wishes to see lake Ontario once more, may
attain his object by ascending to the table land and driving about two miles
when he will find himself on the shore of South Bay, an arm of lake Ontario. And
now we leave Bongard’s and recross
the Bay direct for Adolphustown, where once was the Court house for the
Midland District. Adolphustown is now a rural village with a fine surrounding
country inhabited by many wealthy farmers, fine houses, well cultivated
fields and large barns all attest the richness of the country, and the intelligence
of its occupants. Crossing to Adolphustown we passed a small island, which
has its settler and looks very pretty. Here also from the deck cold be seen
the Adolphustown church and parsonage on the hill. Now we loose from
Adolphustown, either Watson’s or McWhirter’s as the
case may be and steer for the Stone Mills in Marysburgh, where nestles one of
nature’s wonders in a quiet way, a lakelet on the
top of a hill; at least such it seems, and in one sense is. The physical
reality is that the Prince Edward Tableland here touches the Bay in a bold
bluff, as at some other places and on the top of the bluff is a small lake,
having a circumference of rather less than two miles, and in one place a
considerable depth. Before the mills were built here, there was a rock
cascade, by which the superabundant waters of the lake tumbled into the Bay.
Now, its waters are utilized for a carding mill, a plaster mill and a good
sized grist mill. Landing at the Stone Mills
wharf, you proceed to climb the hill, by a steep road up the face of the
cliff. Arrived at the top of the bluff a lovely landscape lies stretched out
before you. To your right the Bay, for miles of the course you have just sailed
with the varied shores of Marysburgh and Adolphustown, to your left the
Picton arm and right before you Adolphustown is divided by Hay Bay, another
arm, sundry islands; the Bay in its width like a small lake of a triangular form;
the high shore of Sophiasburgh, a part of the arm tableland as you are
standing on; the Long Reach, a beautiful part of the Bay, and, at its far end
the Mohawk Reserve with its glittering church spire and thriving village; the
Bay dotted with sailing crafts of various sizes, and perhaps a steamboat, or
a raft – it all lies before you spreading away for miles ‘neath
the shimmer of the sunlight and bright blue sky, a panorama which amply pays
you for half a day’s journey, even had all the way been dreary, instead of
the pleasant and beautiful trip which you have enjoyed, every mile you came
and through some of the most charming scenery in Canada. And here, dear WHIG, for a
while I bid you farewell. K.O.C. Kingston, Sept. 10th. |
