How few of out town readers, though living within ten miles of its extreme eastern edge, are acquainted with Amherst Isle, better known to country folks, by the name of Isle of Tanti. This most fertile island is situated on the north side of lake Ontario and with the peninsula of the Prince Edward District, forms the southern side of the spacious Bay of Quinte, which measuring its sinuosities, is nearly one hundred miles in length, from Kingston to the Carrying Place. Amherst Island is a township by itself, ten miles in length, by three or four in breadth. The centre of the island is directly opposite the quaint and quiet old-fashioned town of Bath, the almost sole remaining relic in the Midland District, of its dutch villages. This Island many years ago was obtained from the Crown by the Johnston Family and some thirty or forty lots were sold off and settled upon, when the present Earl of Mountcashell, an Irish nobleman of large property and equal enterprise, became in 1834 the purchaser of the unsold portion, consisting of full four-fifths of the island. Since that time, Amherst Island has become densely settled and well cultivated. The Earl has sold no portion of his original purchase, but on the contrary has increased its extent, buy buying up any chance lots for sale. In lieu of selling, he grants leases at moderate rents, renewable every seven, fourteen or twenty-one years. The land is of most extraordinary fertility, far superior to any on the main shore in this vicinity and as all the lots are taken up, the leases have become valuable and when renewed, the rents are generally raised. The purchase of Lord Mountcashell has consequently become extremely profitable; and his lordship already derives a large increase to his rent-roll from his Canadian Estates. Whether this state of things will be allowed to continue – whether Irish Absentee Landlordism will be tolerated in Canada, without the laying on of some exorbitant tax, is a matter for some future Legislature to debate upon. In our humble opinion it will not; although the present benefits far overbalance the future evils. The Earl of Mountcashell is far from being a bad landlord. Under his auspices, every thing has been done promote the welfare and prosperity of his settlers. A handsome English Church has been erected, and a clergyman regularly appointed to its service. And agent has always resided on the island; not a middle man, or a grinding and driving bailiff, but a gentleman of family and education, whose actions have proved that the Earl has at heart the happiness of his transatlantic tenantry. Let the present condition of Wolfe Island or Howe Island, both large islands lying east of the one we attempt to describe and both fertile and accessible, be contrasted with that of Amherst Island, and it will be seen at the first glance, how much the latter is indebted to the landlordism of Lord Mountcashell. Its evils are all to come. A tri-weekly mail, a deserted tavern, two idle magistrates, a pious and hard-working clergyman, and a most capital salmon-fishery, are among the advantages which the Amherst Islanders enjoy.

Society in this flourishing island is placed on a most delightful basis, far different from what is generally found in other parts of Canada. Several old country families of good birth and high respectability, have settled on the island as agriculturalists; and cultivating among themselves the ties of friendship and sociability, while they work their farms like ordinary laborers, keep up and maintain all the amenities and courtesies of well bred European life. That this should be at all remarkable may surprise the foreign reader; but when he is told that Western Canada is generally settled by industrious poor people, who become wealthy and influential, without being polished or educated, our remark will be excusable. Fortunately for themselves, the gentlemanly settlers of Amherst Island are as industrious as the most indigent emigrant who ever felled a tree; and we see no reason on earth why they should not in time become wealthy and influential, living all the while like their forefathers and carrying out into actual existence the beau ideal of an English Farmer’s life; a thing often attempted in Canada, but not always successfully.

Sale of Amherst Island

All the remaining right and title of the Earl of Mountcashell in the fee simple of Amherst Island (a separate Township) was sold at Sheriff’s Sale in Kingston, on Saturday last. The purchaser was A.J. Macdonell Esq., (probably for a client) and the price the Island was knocked down for was £6,003. It is said that Mortgages exist to the amount of £66,000, which added to the purchase money and costs, will make the Island cost £75,000 ! There were upwards of 20,000 acres in fee simple, belonging to the Earl, all in excellent cultivation and worth £8 per acre, exclusive of buildings.

The estate of the Earl of Mountcashell, Amherst Island, has been sold at last. The purchaser is A.J. Macdonell, Esq., of this city, who represented the English creditors, the price £6003. The Island is worth about £100,000. The mortgages on it amount to about £70,000.

We understand that a good deal of dissatisfaction is felt by the inhabitants of Amherst Island in consequence of the Post Office being situated so remote from the centre of the Island. The traders who do business at Howard’s landing are obliged to travel nearly five miles to post a letter or receive a newspaper; and many farmers residing on the eastern part of the island, in consequence of the inconvenience of going so far to the post office, have discontinued their newspapers. We have no doubt that if a proper representation of the grievance was made to the Post office Inspector here, a remedy would speedily be applied.

The Amherst Island Post Office

To the Editor of the Daily News

Sir, - I see it stated in your paper of last week that you understand that a good deal of dissatisfaction is felt by the inhabitants of Amherst Island, in consequence of the Post Office being situated so remote from the centre of the Island.

As you appear to have been misinformed in the matter, I beg leave to state for your information, that the dissatisfaction you speak of is felt only by “some” of the inhabitants and although the Post office is not in the centre of the Island, yet, it is a much in the centre as ever it was, as a reference to the map will prove. And your statement in regard to the distance, the Traders at Howard’s Landing having to travel nearly five miles to post a letter or receive a newspaper, is not correct, the distance between that landing and the Post Office being only three miles; which is no more hardship for them to do than the Traders at McGinnis’ Landing, where as much business is done as at the lower landing. Turn about is fair play and I think the people on the east end of the island have had the first turn long enough. The accommodation of the people on the west end of the island has been neglected much longer in the past than they intend it shall be in the future. “Moreover the Post Office is a present kept in a proper and obliging manner.” Nine additional numbers of your paper have been subscribed for within the last fortnight by people on the west end of the Island.

Yours, &c., J.H. Amherst Island, Nov. 10, 1859

Amherst Island is History, Legendary and Authentic – A Charming Summer Resort.

It having been the very pleasant lot of the writer to spend a few days on this pretty isle of Ontario Lake which abounds in legend and interesting reminiscence, I thought it might be well to give a few of my impressions for the benefit of those readers who may find interest in the same. Few people who know anything of the geography of Ontario are ignorant of the approximate location and size of this island, so it will be unnecessary to go into particulars along this line. But doubtless there are not many who know either what is probably legendary or really historic concerning the subject of our sketch. The legend runs that a great many years ago this island was the property of a certain Indian chief, who at the head of his numerous tribe ruled supreme. A certain Colonel Crawford, whose identity the writer has not taken the trouble to look up, made a visit to the island and became the guest of the Indian chief, who for convenience we will call Pocahontas, though I have no authority for saying that was really his name. The colonel wore gold lace and brass buttons. It soon grew apparent that Pocahontas coveted the costume of the pale-face chief. He frequently handled the gold lace and examined very closely the characters on the brass buttons. Finally the chief concocted a queer scheme whereby he might gain possession of the coveted uniform. One morning he appeared before the Colonel with an unusually grave expression on his naturally stern countenance and addressed the latter thus: “Pocahontas had a dream last night; he dreamt that the white chief gave him his war dress.” It being a grave act of discourtesy to refuse under the circumstances, the rather discomfited Colonel had to divest himself of his fine uniform and give it into the possession of the delighted Indian chief. But the Colonel was rather too clever to be outdone by an Indian. He could dream quite as well as Pocahontas. The very next morning after the one on which the Colonel was compelled to hand over his uniform, he appeared before the Indian chief, with a sufficiently grave countenance and started the latter with the following statement: “The pale-face chief has had a dream; he dreamt that Pocahontas gave him his island.” The chief looked very serious, but nevertheless replied: “The island is yours, but my white brother must not dream so big next time.” It is said that at this time the island was called Tanta. We are now, I think, at the end of the legendary period of the history of the island, for there is ample proof that it was once the property of Colonel Crawford. From the time Colonel Crawford gained possession of it till it fell into the hands of a certain Lady Bowes very little, if anything is known concerning its ownership. The countess, while gambling one evening - gambling then being considered a worthy occupation for ladies in polite society, lost very heavily. Being hard pressed for funds, she at last put up her little Canadian island and lost it. The island became successively the property of Lord Montcastle and Mr. Maxwell, who still owns most of it, some of the islanders having been given the deeds of their respective farms. Mr. Moutray acts as agent for the present owner.

Any visitor with average powers of observation cannot fail to be struck with the many interesting features of the island at the present time. The constant efforts of a hardy, honest, industrious people has made it the delightful spot to live in that it is at present. Two small villages, Emerald and Stella, each containing one good general store, have sprung up. Then the islanders have easy access to Kingston markets, as the steamer Hero calls at the island twice a day. The waters of the Bay of Quinte on the north being generally calm, and the island itself being blessed with so many pretty bays, the place affords an excellent opportunity for boating and fishing. As what is called the “Front road” and two or three of the cross roads are well cared for, wheeling may be indulged in with considerable pleasure; in fact, some of the islanders are expert “scorchers.” There are some very pretty drives as well. A ride through “The Cedars” past the residence of Mr. R. A. Fowler, and on to the famous “Battery,” which did service in ’37, cannot well be forgotten. As much can be said of the road running east from Stella past the fine stone residence of Mr. David Patterson.

Recognizing the many advantages of a Summer residence on Amherst Island, a few Kingstonians, Messrs. Wright and Minnes, and Mayor Ryan, have taken possession of the cottages on “Stella Point.” Mr. William Tighe, of Toronto, is also summering there.

As at this present moment the transporting airs of the Stella brass band are wafted to me on the evening breeze, I must desist and sally forth to “enjoy myself.”

FINNIAS FOG.

Amherst Island

Amherst Island lies off the entrance to the Bay of Quinte and like Wolfe Island was part of the original La Salle land grant. It was first called “Kaounesgo” meaning “the drowned ground” and then later was called Isle Tonti. It wa changed to Amherst island by British proclamation after the defeat of the French and named after Field Marshal Sir Jeffery Amherst, commander-in-chief of the British forces at the time of the capture of Louisburg in 1758.

Sir William Johnson: Dream of Owning Amherst Island Came True

Lying off the entrance to the Bay of Quinte, Amherst island was part of La Salle’s huge estate.

It was first called “Kaounesgo” meaning “the drowned ground” and today it is hard to see the significance of this name even though Indian names were usually descriptive. The island today, 12-and-a-half miles from Kingston, stands high and dry.

The island came into the hands of Sir William Johnson in a unique fashion if the oft-told romantic tale is to be believed. An Indian Chief, owner of the island, admired Johnson’s gold-braided uniform and said he deemed he owned it.

This amused Johnson so, he immediately stripped off his uniform. However, he turned the tables when he told the chief that he dreamed that the chief gave him that over there.

The crest-fallen Indian saw the trap, but was not to be outdone in generosity.

“You dream big dreams. I give you the island, but we dream no more dreams,” he said.

Whether the story is true or not, it is known that Johnson was the first owner of the island when settlers arrived. It once passed from hand to hand in a card game and in 1857 became the property of Major R. P. Maxwell of county Down, Ireland and H.W. Moutray became the first resident agent in 1871.

Mr. Moutray was one of the outstanding characters of Amherst Island. On his retirement from the management of the island business on his 81^st birthday, grateful islanders presented him with a handsome sum of money and a written address of appreciation for the good done for the people about him. It is said that M. Moutray put many of the islanders “on their feet”; that if the money owed to him by many was now paid back his family would indeed, be wealthy.

Parts of the estate were sold until about 5,000 acres only remained to Major Maxwell. The first pioneers to settle the land were from the mainland, chiefly from around Ernestown. These early settlers took up farms near the Head, the names Hitchen, Howard, Instant, McKenty, McGinness, MacDonald, McMullen, Richards and Wemp being prominent among them.

Soon after these emigrants from Ireland began to settle near the opposite end of the Island, the Foot, and among these settlers appeared the names Allen, Burleigh, Cochrane, Cousin, Gibson, Girvin, Glen, McQuoid, Patterson, Preston and Saunders.

In 1792 the name was changed from Isle Tonti to Amherst Island by the proclamation of Governor Simcoe. Communication was chiefly with Kingston and the island people depended upon daily boats from Prince Edward County to take them to Kingston where most of their business was done.

Some of the hardier settlers rowed their own boats the full 12 and a half miles to the town. In winter the freezing of the channel made a good roadway for horses and sleighs or cutters. It took a whole day to make the trip to Kingston but nothing daunted the settlers and the journey was often made.

The Anglican congregation were the first to have religious services on the island. A pioneer missionary, the Rev. John Langhorn from Kingston, was the clergyman who officiated. The first Anglican church was built about 1836, a frame building, on a site one mile west of the village of Stella. It was given to the people by Lord Mount Cashel. The early ministers of this church were the Rev. Smart and later, the Rev. E. Cartwright whose leaving in 1874 was deeply regretted by all his friends on the island. Just before the Rev. R.S. Wilkinson took over the work of the church in 1903, the old rectory was burned down and the present building was raised.

There were no regular Presbyterian services on the island until 1849. At first the missionary, Rev. Mr. McLeise of Ulster, carried on services in the open under the spreading branches of the trees where Glenwood Cemetery now lies. In 1852, the congregation became organized with the Rev. Mr. Daniel McCurdy as minister. James Strain, William Patterson and James Girvin were the first elders for the new church of 74 communications. A frame church was built during this ministry near the roadside at the site of the present structure which was erected after the arrival of the Rev. James Cumberland as minister in 1881.

The Rev. Mr. Cumberland was loved by all upon the island. Not only his own congregation but adherents of all churches respected this public-spirited, highly esteemed man. He remained with his followers on the island until his retirement to Kingston in the year 1920 having stayed with the same congregation longer than any other minister in the country.

His services were not confined to his own church. When other small congregations at Bath, Sandhurst, or Ernestown were without ministers he helped willingly. He gave active aid in rebuilding the McDowall Memorial Church in Fredericksburgh and the old Lutheran Church at Ernestown.

It was his great pleasure to visit and talk with the children of the five public schools on the island. His interest in education was instrumental in bringing a secondary school to the isolated community. He took his share in doing away with this “isolation” for it was largely due to him that cable connection with the mainland was made and that rural telephone service became possible. He advocated the building of a consolidated school on the island where all the privileges of modern education and equipment could be given to the young of his community.

It was during the Rev. Mr. Cumberland’s ministry that the dignified structure, St. Paul’s country church, standing on a slope rising from the Glenwood Cemetery, was built. The limestone for the building was obtained from the Kingston Penitentiary quarries. William Allen donated the site for this beautiful country church to the congregation.

The Methodist followers worshipped in the orange Hall at Stella until 1874 when with the work of the Rev. M. Ferguson and the enthusiasm of his congregation the present building was erected. One of the outstanding clergy men of this church was the minister and author, Rev. G. Houghton Porter, whose work “The Reality of The Divine Movement in Israel” gave him a high place among writers.

Rev. Father McMahon of Kingston was the first Roman Catholic missionary to the island. He held services in the homes of his people for it was not until 1860 that the present church was built upon land donated for the purpose by the late John McCormack.

The Amherst Islander is the third ferry boat to carry that name. The first Amherst Islander was a wooden boat built in Collingwood in 1928 and capable of carrying eight cars.

It was replaced by a converted landing craft used in the Second World War which was capable of carrying 14 cars. It and the first wooden boat were not capable of operating well in rough seas.

The present boat, built in the Kingston Shipyards, went into service in 1954 replacing the MV Sorelois which was used to replace the old Amherst Islander when it was condemned in 1953.

The 106-foot ferry is capable of carrying 125 passengers and 19 cars. She is also an excellent icebreaker and has undergone major engine enlargements over the years.

A $45,000 bubble making machinery system to break up ice in the channel to Amherst island was installed two years ago. It has not yet been tested in a severe winter but is working satisfactorily so that the islander has not missed a trip this year according to Reeve Vincent Aitken.

Amherst Island Today

A 50-minute color documentary on Amherst Island, filmed two years ago on the island community will be released soon.

Amherst Island is a film searching out the nature and character of the people. Miraculously preserved from modern times, the land, the buildings, the way of life are a visual reliving of the 19^th century in Upper Canada.

The filming by Intercom Films with financial co-operation from Young and Biggin took place two weeks before the island’s famous cheese factory closed. The film is meant for television viewing and was written, produced and directed by Gil Taylor and edited by Eric W. Rate with pat Doyle as associate producer and Neil Wolfe as camera man.

These people gave of their time free believing only that the film had to be done. They feel it has something for all Canadians.

It is a soft and gently film beginning with spring and summer reliving the brilliant Canadian autumn and ending in the cold, hard, isolated days of winter. Ironically as the seasons turn, so has the life of the island and its people.

The once flourishing farm community has dwindled from a population of 1,200 people 15 years ago to the 350 people of today. The young leave for high school on the mainland and few return to make their living here.

Many of the neat little farms with their clapboard houses are deserted. There are few cars on the road and no hotels.

Stella, the only village since Emerald became a ghost town, is a cluster of about 20 houses, a 96-year-old store, the original owner of which started his business in 1867, a quaint post office and store, the cheese factory, a blacksmith shop built in 1850, Victoria Hall, owned by the Loyal Orange Lodge, a county library and a bank which is open once a week.

Much of the best farm land on Amherst Island is in the hands of land speculators. In an effort to control growth, particularly that of summer cottage owners, the island council has passed a bylaw zoning most of the island as farm land or for agriculture use. It will be tested before the OMB because over 3,600 acres are being held for land speculation.

The island is located 20 minutes from the dock at Millhaven, 12.5 miles west of Kingston. It is 11 miles long and three miles wide.